Backstage at NYFW AW2019 makeup artists went bolder then usual
Beauty speaking, there has never been a WOW! NYFW. The looks were always quite plain, pulling off sporty ponytails or beach waves and healthy glows matched with red lips or black flicks.
But this season (AW2019) things are changing, backstage the air was electric and makeup artists and hairstylist were ready to experiment with new and edgier makeup trends, and we should credit Rodarte for that. From LA it kick started the US Fashion Week with a striking monochromatic glitter-lids-and-lips combo, which maybe won’t be our daily goal but for sure works as a great motivation towards beauty fun.
To create the look, James Kaliardos for Nars Cosmetics used pink (NARS Audacious Lipstick in Claudia) or red lipstick (Powermatte Lip Pigment in Don’t Stop) as a base on eyelids and lips, with a hefty dose of matching glitter pressed on top.
We love matchy-matchy makeup
Continuing on the monochromatic makeup trend, at Cushnie the 70’s inspiration was all on warm orange-red tones applied across the cheek, temple, eyes, and lip, while at Veronica Beard models pulled off matching rosy-colored eyes and lips and at Sally La Point James Kaliardos used one of M.A.C.'s new Powder Kiss Lipstick shades, to add a whispers of color to the lids and lips.
Don’t let the bling stop
But Rodarte introduced another big beauty trend of next fall, something that I would easily call Don’t let the bling stop. At Christian Siriano Makeup artist Erin Parsons intricately applied Swarovski crystals to each model's face as though they were freckles; at Area hairstylist Jawara placed over models’ hair crystal-mesh headpieces but the look was taken to the next level at Christian Cowan where model Halima Aden wore a rhinestone hijab.
And if these were the most memorable looks, NYFW showcased a lot of other eye-catching makeups.
Studio 54 is back
Another big makeup trend of next fall was introduced at Micheal Kors by Dick Page for Mac Cosmetics, who
gave the models a disco treatments with either winged shadow in black and gold or a cloud of iridescent violet encircling their lids.
Let’s say that these look were something that we should have expected in London. Netherless, as I said NY is ready to experiment and here are some great proof of this new artsy makeup trend.
Imperfection and color blocks were the key at Carolina Herrera where, makeup artist Romy Soleimani smuded a lipsticks across the lids the same way you would apply it to your lips.
At Collina Strada, makeup artist Yuka Ishizuka, created a "tie-dye" effect around models eyes, brows, and cheekbone by mixing vividly colored creams with white to create acid-bright shades; while at Eckhaus Latta makeup Artist Ismaya French used an airbrush to apply different colored M.A.C. pigments around the eyes in either sporadic painterly smudges or hazy, multicolored masks that stretched across the top half of the models' faces.
At Chromat Fatima Thomas used MAC shadows to diffuse neon washes of color across the temple along with a bright stripe of colored liner reaching outward from the outer corner of the eye which for sure is not a makeup trend we would pull off easily, while Aat Rosie Assoulin makeup artist James Kaliardos gave us a great shortcut to perfect eyeliner: he cut out pieces of colored and glitter tape and fastened them onto the outer edge of the lash line with eyelash glue.
At Tomo Koizumi makeup artist Pat McGrath created a sharp winged eye shadow in the most delicate, twinkly shade of lavender, while at Kate Spade Romy Soleimani used the name "Rosewood" to describe the colors she used backstage. The secret of this eyes-opening look? She used the burgundy powders on the inner half of the eyes, then the rose-gold shadows on the outer half of the eyes and along the cheekbones.
It’s called the Fetisheyes Mascara and it was the hero backstage at Longchamp to create the fluttery, doe-like lashes. I’m so sure that we will see a lot of these on the catwalks in Milan and Paris.